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Anyway, we chose this 17.1 mile section for a reason. It is one of the shortest sections, has less up/down, multiple shelters, and was equidistantly located from our relative homes. We required an easier hike since we were breaking in a new hiker. My buddy has this girl, ya know? He told me it was important(to him) for her to enjoy the trip. Maybe he has long range plans with this one. So we all agreed on a simple trek with old friends. Six hikers in all.
We planned to meet Will at the trailhead along Hiway 298 before 5:00 P.M. and drop one vehicle there, another several miles back up for the trail for an early exit option for our new compatriot. Then dropping the third at the trailhead on Hiway 27(mile 121.7). This got us off the pavement by around 6:00 P.M., or dark-thirty. We only needed a one mile uphill night-hike to get us to the James Archer Shelter(mile 122.6).
With so many hikers all alighting from one pickup truck, it took a while to get our packs loaded up. You know how it goes. People digging out headlamps, gaiters and trekking poles. Stowing phones and filling extra water bottles(no water source until the next morning). Even loading up borrowed gear. THIS is why I don't recommend night starts with large groups.
There was a bright moon out so I brought up the rear and never even used my headlamp. I'm very comfortable and have good trail eyes anyway. I had to laugh when Sara(our newbie) was actually trying to avoid stepping in a bit of (shallow)mud. I'm not picking on her, just noting that what we think is normal is odd to others. We arrived at the shelter and claimed our spots. It was a beautiful shelter. Nicer than any we saw in North Carolina last spring on the AT.
Will, Scopa, and I gathered up wood and got a fire going while Turtle entertained the ladies. He's good at it. By the time we got settled in, Sara was huddling in her bag to stay warm. It was probably about 40 degrees F. It just goes to show that although jeans and a sweatshirt will work, they aren't ideal. She was game to come out when the fire got cranked up a bit. We ate and told stories until about 10:00 P.M.
Shelter floors are much harder than the ground in my experience. I MUST remember to bring an inflatable mattress next time I plan on sleeping on hard wood. It dropped down to about freezing that night and I was just a tad chilly. But only enough for one potty-break in the night. We all slept in until nearly 8:00 A.M. I guess we were waiting for the Sun to wake us up. It stays dark much longer in a northward facing roofed shelter.
Scopa and Turtle boiled water for us while the rest of us broke camp. Now that it was daylight, you could tell that the trail follows a ridge for most of it's length. This also differentiates it from trails in the Ozarks. Up there, the old mountaineers all ,"so used to running up mountains, down valleys, when they get to flatlands, one leg is too long." All day long, our elevation would stay between 900-1450 ft.
We came to one of only 2 good watering spots for our entire hike within the first mile. I didn't see a name for it on our map. It was an 10 inch deep, smooth running brook that we crossed foot dry by finding a log. Most data sources I found say that it dries up in the summer months. But the Ouachitas had plenty of rain in December. The trail crosses a forest road after 1.5 miles from the shelter, then it begins a long, snake-like path upwards for about 500+ ft. within the next 1.5 miles. This is the toughest part of this section.
I brought up the rear until I couldn't stand it any longer. I don't mind hiking at the pace of slower hikers until it uses energy just to slow down my steps. So I settled into a rhythm of hiking until my followers were nearly out of sight, then slowing down on the easier portions of the climb. Will and the Scopas seemed to be doing the same with me. This is where I really started to take notice of my surroundings. The trail had far less rocks in it than we see in the Ozarks, with lots of pine needles padding our feet. I love a pine forest for hiking through. There was just enough hardwoods that the view opened up nicely to the North. You just can't beat a mountain view after leaf-off.
We stopped for lunch after about 4.5 miles of hiking, on Sandlick Mountain. Our mileage was a bit disappointing, but we started late and had already finished the toughest part of the weekend's hike. I knew then that Turtle and Sara would be using the early cut-out where we parked his truck. But it didn't matter to any of us. We had lots of time to talk while we breaked. Sara was a trooper. The weather was in the 50's, so there was a lot of de-layering going on all day. Then re-layering for our longer breaks.
After eating our Ramen and GORP respectively, we proceeded down the mountain for another mile or so. There we found Irons Fork Creek, which runs all year long. This is the ONLY sure water spot on this section of the trail. It is wide and deep, but has a concrete low-water bridge on it. We were able to cross feet-dry because there was only a trickle going over the top of it. We all camel'd up and refilled all of our water bottles here. All of us guys were carrying 4 liters of water from that point on. According to everything I had read, there might not be any more water available. There wasn't between there and the next shelter, at Big Branch.
But we didn't even make it that far anyway. The climb out of the Irons Fork basin seemed to tucker out poor Sara. She probably only weighs 110 soaking wet anyway. Scopa(trail named "Burro") carried her pack up that hill, and we found a mountain top campsite about 100 yards South of the trail. There was lots of rocks to be moved before we could set up our 4 tents. But there was a remnant of an old fire ring, so we settled in nicely. It was way before dark, so gathering wood was very easy. I started a fire while Turtle started to make dinner and Will gathered wood. These guys really like their campfires.
We looked at the map and planned our next day. Turtle and Sara decided to just hike to their truck at the North crossing of CR 78, while the rest of us pushed on to Will's car at the trailhead. We would be going 4 miles further than them so decided on an early start. We ate dinner before dark and Turtle and Sara sacked out while the sun was still up. It wasn't even cold! I guess we wore them out. The rest of us sat around the fire drying our moist socks and warming our bare feet for hours. We turned in before 9:00 ourselves. They don't call 9 O'clock "backpackers' midnight" for nothing.
It got a lot colder that night. I got hot enough to sweat in my bag within 20 minutes, then shivered the rest of the night. I think I was too well hydrated if you know what I mean. I finally gave up on sleep at about a quarter to 6. I woke up the other guys and we lit out before sunup with our lamps blazing. We didn't need them by the time we stopped to de-layer. It was smooth sailing down the trail. Breakfast en route. There was only a little up-hill left before basically downhill to the end. We passed their truck by 8:00 A.M. and made a bet amongst ourselves whether they had even got out of their bags yet.
We slackpacked from there, hustling through the remaining trail(5 miles) by 10:00A.M. It was really a refreshing hike, with our first views southward. I worked up a good sweat, but didn't worry about chilling that close to the end. Scopa carried my ULA CDT pack with our water. He wanted to give it a go since he had never worn a frameless pack before. I think he didn't care for the lack of air flow on his back. Will shuttled me back to my truck and we all returned to Turtle's truck about 5 minutes before our wayward friends arrived. Perfect timing. We all ate a big, greasy meal at this little country store in Story, AR. FYI, that store actually does some shuttling. Will has the number, so maybe he will leave it in the comments.
We all had a great time on a relaxing trip. It reminded me that we don't have to challenge ourselves every time out. Just being out there is good enough. Save the challenges for times when you need the extra miles to make a trip even possible. Savor the companionship of allowing new hikers to join your party. Relish the teaching moments with the newbies. Just imagine the day when they might be teaching the next generation of outdoorsmen.
Guidebook Used: Ouachita Trail Guide by Tim Ernst
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