Trip Report: Ouachita Trail, Section 6

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When the Holidays roll around, so do out-of state friends. So the crew was back together and we wanted something different. The Ouachita National Recreation Trail(OT) is in our home state of Arkansas. This was to be my first trip on it. The trail runs 223 miles from Talimena State Park in Oklahoma to Pinnacle Mountain State Park near Little Rock, Arkansas. Unlike the Ozark Highlands Trail, it is actually protected from clear cuts in the National Forests by law. I'm sure that many of you think of the National Forests as parks. What they really are is publicly owned resource management areas. Timbering, oil and gas exploration, etc. are the real purpose. It just so happens that they are still open to recreational use. This suits me perfectly. No permits needed for backcountry access. This is where they beat the National Park System.
     Anyway, we chose this 17.1 mile section for a reason. It is one of the shortest sections, has less up/down, multiple shelters, and was equidistantly located from our relative homes. We required an easier hike since we were breaking in a new hiker. My buddy has this girl, ya know? He told me it was important(to him) for her to enjoy the trip. Maybe he has long range plans with this one. So we all agreed on a simple trek with old friends. Six hikers in all.
     We planned to meet Will at the trailhead along Hiway 298 before 5:00 P.M. and drop one vehicle there, another several miles back up for the trail for an early exit option for our new compatriot. Then dropping the third at the trailhead on Hiway 27(mile 121.7). This got us off the pavement by around 6:00 P.M., or dark-thirty. We only needed a one mile uphill night-hike to get us to the James Archer Shelter(mile 122.6).
     With so many hikers all alighting from one pickup truck, it took a while to get our packs loaded up. You know how it goes. People digging out headlamps, gaiters and trekking poles. Stowing phones and filling extra water bottles(no water source until the next morning). Even loading up borrowed gear. THIS is why I don't recommend night starts with large groups.
     There was a bright moon out so I brought up the rear and never even used my headlamp. I'm very comfortable and have good trail eyes anyway. I had to laugh when Sara(our newbie) was actually trying to avoid stepping in a bit of (shallow)mud. I'm not picking on her, just noting that what we think is normal is odd to others. We arrived at the shelter and claimed our spots. It was a beautiful shelter. Nicer than any we saw in North Carolina last spring on the AT.
     Will, Scopa, and I gathered up wood and got a fire going while Turtle entertained the ladies. He's good at it. By the time we got settled in, Sara was huddling in her bag to stay warm. It was probably about 40 degrees F. It just goes to show that although jeans and a sweatshirt will work, they aren't ideal. She was game to come out when the fire got cranked up a bit. We ate and told stories until about 10:00 P.M.
     Shelter floors are much harder than the ground in my experience. I MUST remember to bring an inflatable mattress next time I plan on sleeping on hard wood.  It dropped down to about freezing that night and I was just a tad chilly. But only enough for one potty-break in the night. We all slept in until nearly 8:00 A.M. I guess we were waiting for the Sun to wake us up. It stays dark much longer in a northward facing roofed shelter.
     Scopa and Turtle boiled water for us while the rest of us broke camp. Now that it was daylight, you could tell that the trail follows a ridge for most of it's length. This also differentiates it from trails in the Ozarks. Up there, the old mountaineers all ,"so used to running up mountains, down valleys, when they get to flatlands, one leg is too long." All day long, our elevation would stay between 900-1450 ft.
     We came to one of only 2 good watering spots for our entire hike within the first mile. I didn't see a name for it on our map. It was an 10 inch deep, smooth running brook that we crossed foot dry by finding a log. Most data sources I found say that it dries up in the summer months. But the Ouachitas had plenty of rain in December.  The trail crosses a forest road after 1.5 miles from the shelter, then it begins a long, snake-like path upwards for about 500+ ft. within the next 1.5 miles. This is the toughest part of this section.
     I brought up the rear until I couldn't stand it any longer. I don't mind hiking at the pace of slower hikers until it uses energy just to slow down my steps. So I settled into a rhythm of hiking until my followers were nearly out of sight, then slowing down on the easier portions of the climb. Will and the Scopas seemed to be doing the same with me. This is where I really started to take notice of my surroundings. The trail had far less rocks in it than we see in the Ozarks, with lots of pine needles padding our feet. I love a pine forest for hiking through. There was just enough hardwoods that the view opened up nicely to the North. You just can't beat a mountain view after leaf-off.
     We stopped for lunch after about 4.5 miles of hiking, on Sandlick Mountain. Our mileage was a bit disappointing, but we started late and  had already finished the toughest part of the weekend's hike. I knew then that Turtle and Sara would be using the early cut-out where we parked his truck. But it didn't matter to any of us. We had lots of time to talk while we breaked. Sara was a trooper. The weather was in the 50's, so there was a lot of de-layering going on all day. Then re-layering for our longer breaks.
     After eating our Ramen and GORP respectively, we proceeded down the mountain for another mile or so. There we found Irons Fork Creek, which runs all year long. This is the ONLY sure water spot on this section of the trail. It is wide and deep, but has a concrete low-water bridge on it. We were able to cross feet-dry because there was only a trickle going over the top of it. We all camel'd up and refilled all of our water bottles here. All of us guys were carrying 4 liters of water from that point on. According to everything I had read, there might not be any more water available. There wasn't between there and the next shelter, at Big Branch.
     But we didn't even make it that far anyway. The climb out of the Irons Fork basin seemed to tucker out poor Sara. She probably only weighs 110 soaking wet anyway. Scopa(trail named "Burro") carried her pack up that hill, and we found a mountain top campsite about 100 yards South of the trail. There was lots of rocks to be moved before we could set up our 4 tents. But there was a remnant of an old fire ring, so we settled in nicely. It was way before dark, so gathering wood was very easy. I started a fire while Turtle started to make dinner and Will gathered wood. These guys really like their campfires.
     We looked at the map and planned our next day. Turtle and Sara decided to just hike to their truck at the North crossing of CR 78, while the rest of us pushed on to Will's car at the trailhead. We would be going 4 miles further than them so decided on an early start. We ate dinner before dark and Turtle and Sara sacked out while the sun was still up. It wasn't even cold! I guess we wore them out. The rest of us sat around the fire drying our moist socks and warming our bare feet for hours. We turned in before 9:00 ourselves. They don't call 9 O'clock "backpackers' midnight" for nothing.
     It got a lot colder that night. I got hot enough to sweat in my bag within 20 minutes, then shivered the rest of the night. I think I was too well hydrated if you know what I mean. I finally gave up on sleep at about a quarter to 6. I woke up the other guys and we lit out before sunup with our lamps blazing. We didn't need them by the time we stopped to de-layer. It was smooth sailing down the trail. Breakfast en route. There was only a little up-hill left before basically downhill to the end. We passed their truck by 8:00 A.M. and made a bet amongst ourselves whether they had even got out of their bags yet.
     We slackpacked from there, hustling through the remaining trail(5 miles) by 10:00A.M. It was really a refreshing hike, with our first views southward. I worked up a good sweat, but didn't worry about chilling that close to the end. Scopa carried my ULA CDT pack with our water. He wanted to give it a go since he had never worn a frameless pack before. I think he didn't care for the lack of air flow on his back. Will shuttled me back to my truck and we all returned to Turtle's truck about 5 minutes before our wayward friends arrived. Perfect timing. We all ate a big, greasy meal at this little country store in Story, AR. FYI, that store actually does some shuttling. Will has the number, so maybe he will leave it in the comments.
     We all had a great time on a relaxing trip. It reminded me that we don't have to challenge ourselves every time out. Just being out there is good enough. Save the challenges for times when you need the extra miles to make a trip even possible. Savor the companionship of allowing new hikers to join your party. Relish the teaching moments with the newbies. Just imagine the day when they might be teaching the next generation of outdoorsmen.

Guidebook Used: Ouachita Trail Guide by Tim Ernst

Guest Post- Amanda Scopa-What it's like being an Outdoorsman's wife?

I'd like to introduce a great friend. She's the "cool wife" of one of my best friends- a longtime hiking companion. It recently dawned on me that she might be an untapped resource. She has always seemed supportive of his outdoor pursuits(backpacking, climbing, cycling, kayaking, sailing, and Scoutmaster-ing). He does it all, and she does it with him sometimes. But she rarely puts the brakes on one of our trips. For that, she has my admiration and thanks. So I asked her to explain what it was like, and what were her motivations for the support. Here she is... Amanda Scopa!

What it's like being an Outdoorsman's wife?

by Amanda Scopa

     Does your garage look like an outdoors store? Is your spouse frequently mentioning new gear that needs to be added to the collection?  Could you outfit a group of people with gear to go hiking, kayaking, rock climbing, skiing, snowboarding, or fishing?  If so, you might be married to an outdoorsman, or be an outdoorsman.  This is a different type of post. It is about being married to an obsessed outdoorsman.  Now "obsessed" might bring about a negative connotation to most, but that is not the truth. It just means he is dedicated.  A true outdoorsman goes out no matter the weather report, no matter the looks he gets from less dedicated friends or his wife (myself included).  Being a wife to an outdoorsman brings excitement, exhaustion from trying to keep up, and truly a life you can look back on with no regrets.  

     Overall, I have been told that I am the "cool wife" so I may not be objective in telling the story of being married to my outdoor loving husband.  Although I do like being outdoors myself, mostly it is the views I go for.  If the weather is cold or rainy, I would rather curl up with a good book, or a movie next to a fire and let my crazed husband go on his own.  Unfortunately good therapists, marriage books, and even my gut instinct tells me that every once in a while I should.  To understand this reasoning you have to know my husband and know that he is so much more satisfied in our marriage when I do go.

     Frank is the most dedicated, fun loving, trustworthy, friend and partner in life.  Between his search for adventure and wanting to live his life to the fullest, he stays pretty busy.  Not to mention we have an almost two year old son and a career that sometimes wants to suck the life out of him.  Sometimes life gets in the way of Frank.  The Frank I know and love is a laid back person that wants to live his life to the fullest.  So much so at the end of it he wants to be is exhausted, because everyone knows "You can rest when you're dead."  I know it's time to get him outside when he seems down and out, gets frustrated easily, and he comes home talking about work a little too negatively. This I have found is true for most outdoorsmen.

     The key is most people do not understand what it is like to shut the phone off, remove oneself from the constant drama of life, and experience true peace in the sounds of the woods.  As someone that does like to get out and take her fair share of pictures of nature I can try to encompass what it feels like, but probably won't come close.  Take my advice and go out and experience it yourself, even if just for the day (can I please say don't go on a trail that has 400 other visitors, it misses the purpose).  The following is my attempt at giving you a glimpse at the wonderland of nature and why these men and women love it so much.

     There is a transformation that happens the second your car has been parked at a trailhead, and you start hiking down a well worn path or even a barely distinguished trail.  A moment of excitement on what the journey will bring, and then a split second of here goes nothing.  Plus, without all the noise of town suddenly your ears seem to perk up and you hear noises you are sure weren't there a second beforehand.  Then the final thing that I always  notice is this deep breath I take.  Like it is my first breath of a new life for a few days, when all of the problems or stressors I'm dealing with fade, because it doesn't matter out here.  You feel stronger, more relaxed, and whether there is easy conversation or not it is nice having a little fellowship of friends experiencing the adventure ahead. But it's not just the trip itself.  There's the planning and anticipation at the beginning, at the end there are all the great stories to be retold.  And no trip would be complete without a great meal at some hole-in-the-wall diner, all the better because you just truly accomplished something.  An outdoorsman will savor each aspect of the trip and make its enjoyment last much longer than the time spent in the woods.   You have survived by your own hand and led your feet so that your eyes could see breathtaking vistas and maybe even a little wildlife.  Plus at the end you look back on those moments of hard hills that were climbed and realized you appreciate the fact your body was able to summit those hills.  

     What I love about being an outdoorsman's wife is that life is never boring.  Let me repeat that, never boring.  Now there are hard moments of being an outdoorsman's wife when all you really want to do is hang out at home or cook a good meal.  Then your beloved significant other expresses the need to go visit the woods.  For the most part I try to remember that I am not a true outdoors girl, and that those moments of solitude in the woods are not my survival methods for dealing with daily life, but they are my husband's.  The thing to remember is that if he can go out and cope with his stresses then he is going to come back so much happier, a better husband and father because he has decompressed.  Plus he is grateful that you are understanding enough to let him go and experience his other love, God's creation.  And who can argue with that?

Step 1 to a lighter pack; understand what you are, and what you want to be.

     This past week I had several non-hikers ask me questions about what I actually do in the woods. When I tell stories about trips they actually stare at me with a complete lack of understanding. It seems as if they are enthralled by the idea of heading deep into the more beautiful spaces on our planet, but have no idea how to get there. The stories hikers tell begin with the sublime and end bordering on insanity. There is both solace and glamour. And there are many who would love to see what we see. They just don't know how. So this post is a return to the beginning for me as a blogger. I wanted to pass on knowledge to aspiring outdoorsman. And to preach about the virtues of doing it with less weight on their backs.

     Some think that being "lightweight" is the goal. But it's just not that simple for most. My brother, for instance thinks in terms of dollars spent and the functionality of his gear. Another buddy seems to believe that he simply "can't" get away with carrying less. I contend that the opposite approach may be the simplest. Suppose you started by writing down exactly what you would need to go for a walk in a park. Then you added what you would need if that were an all day walk in the woods. Hmmm.... then you added what you would need if you decided to sleep in the woods that night. For survival, that is. Maybe THEN you consider a trip lasting multiple nights in the woods. My guess is that only then would you begin adding what an ultralighter would consider luxury items. This is supposed to be each person's journey. They should decide what is mandatory and what can be dispensed with.

     Here's an example; when you decide that your daily walk in the park is going to become a day hike into the backcountry. All of a sudden, you need water. And shed those tennis shoes, too. But do you need full on mountaineering boots? Not really. Just something with better rigidity and grip. Also, you may need a snack or lunch. Maybe a jacket(or raincoat) if the weather is going to change at all before you get back. You'll be hiking further away from safety after all. That being said, you would be wise to carry along a compass and a map. So, in review, you now have different shoes, a jacket, some food and water, and navigation materials. Oh, and a pack to carry them in. That doesn't have to be all conclusive. It's just an example of thinking only in terms of what you NEED. 

     The same idea can be applied when you decide to camp overnight in the course of your hike. Now you need more water(or water treatment), more food(and something to cook with-if you choose to cook), a shelter, and a sleeping system(bag and mattress). A knife, a light source, and a firestarter too. That's just for survival. In practicality, you would likely want to brush teeth, take vitamins, use toilet paper, etc. These weren't requirements, they were desires. I'm all for these types of concessions. 

     It's just that I firmly believe that we should be adding to our packs from empty as we find new needs. Not subtracting from them as we dare. This is the key to shedding pack weight. It's a mindset that most don't have. I didn't when I began this journey. It's a skill that one picks up when creating their own packing list. Shoot, I'm an Eagle Scout trained in being prepared for anything. The packing lists found in my old Boy Scout Handbook were filled with more redundancy than I could physically carry. Recognizing the liability that the Boy Scouts of America have is the only way to view their training. I get it. But it doesn't eliminate the opportunity to search for new approaches. 

     The mainstream outdoor press and manufacturers don't really help the situation. Sure, they can get new people into the outdoors with some degree of safety. Again, I say it's not just about that. Having the latest North Face or Patagonia gear doesn't qualify one to be in the backcountry. Common sense, research, and skill development do. So the various outdoor education organizations are doing a service, if not fully divulging the secrets. It seems their approach is to let the rookie outdoorsman learn the hard way. You know,"carry this 40 lb. pack just in case you need 40 lbs. of gear." I mean there's no fashion police in the woods to inform you that you can't wear the same pair of pants twice. Or that your tent HAS to be a dome. Even that your pack needs to have a frame. 

     By all means mimic the people you see going before you. Just don't give in to the concept that they possess the only "right" way. Read gear reviews and trip reports. Find the outdoor site that grabs your attention and figure out what books they read. Soak it all in. Take some dayhikes. Talk your buddies into camping trips. experiment with clothing in different weather conditions. Even if you're just going to a football game. 

     Borrow gear and practice camping in your backyard. Every time you need another piece of gear go inside and get it. You'll determine that you don't absolutely have to carry everything you'd imagined. It's a lot like going to visit family out of town. You could check in at a hotel if you wanted, but you might settle instead on a couch. Those are the same types of concessions you make when you attempt to reduce the amount of gear on your back. I don't carry a huge air mattress to sleep on. It's just a piece of closed cell foam(CCF). But every step I take all day long is easier for it. Others choose to carry a heavier mattress and eliminate gear elsewhere.

      The key advice I have for a new backpacker(or one attempting to get lighter) is to understand their own needs, desires, and abilities. Learn more, and take things slowly. Don't go shopping until you're sure of what you want. Don't copy without asking around if something doesn't seem right. Ask questions about everything. "Why do I need that kind of water storage device?" Begin weighing your gear. Knowing what is weighing your pack down is the key to staying light and fast. Write down everything, and you will be amazed at your progression within months. Mostly, just try new things at the edge of your capabilities. That's where real adventure is. 

New Year's Trip to the Buffalo River

My brother "Will" came up for New Years for a fun weekend. We joined our big brother at a borrowed cabin at the lake for a fun family event. The cabin was gorgeous, had a million square feet of decks, and was completely stifling because my nieces insisted on a fire on a 65 degree day. I'm not kidding you. It was nearly 80 degrees in there at bedtime. Will and I elected to sleep on the deck even though it was gusting 30+ m.p.h. winds. It stayed above 40F all night. Glorious.
    We had decided on driving to Steel Creek on the Buffalo National River on New Year's morn. So we shuttled my truck to Kyle's Landing and doubled back. On the trail by 11:00 A.M. or so. Our plan was the Buffalo River Trail(BRT) to the Slatey Place before turning off down to Horsehoe Bend, where there is a barn we could sleep in if we wanted beside the river. The next morning, hike back up the mountain to rejoin the BRT and finish out at Kyles Landing.
     Both of us have hiked nearly every foot of trail in the Buffalo River valley upstream of Erbie. We spent many summers working at Camp Orr Adventure Base staff. Nine for me and I think six for him. We know and love the area. I hadn't been in this area for two years. For him it was more like eight I think. It's like our second home.
     The first thing we noticed having changed was the road into Steel Creek. It is now paved all the way to the campgrounds. It must have been the first time I have thanked our government for creating the Gi-normous slush fund that was the "Stimulus Bill". First or second, I have no idea. But needless to say, I doubt I'll complain about them cutting funds to the National Park system. Now I'll complain about how they spend their funding. Enough about that. I may even scratch it later. I don't endeavor to wax politic on this blog. I like talking about wonderful things. The paved road was wonderful. Especially for my brother's BMW.
     The BRT climbs out of Steel Creek campsite at about 1000 ft. elevation. It is a steep wall to the valley for much of the duration of the river. This river is a fantastic float, too. The stuff postcards are made of.  The trail jumps up to 1250 ft. within about a mile before crossing Steel Creek. Steel Creek is a beautiful, shallow and clear running stream that flows into the Buffalo. We crossed it feet-dry by rock jumping. Rock jumping is one of my weak spots as a hiker. I nearly always get an ankle wet somehow. Trekking poles help me balance though.

Steel Creek Campground, Bee Bluff

     We continued back up the next mountain, which is steep in some places. The trail is notoriously rocky around there. But it yielded a splendid view of the river and the campground and Roark Bluff within another mile. I was huffing and puffing by the overlook. We were on the top of Bee Bluff at this point. I stopped for pictures and a breather. Will gets impatient with my camera stops. Oh well, he sure likes when I upload the pics.

Poser.

     We felt a bit of a time squeeze due to our late start. So we kept moving at a pretty good clip, as we still had about 6 miles to go. Due to the leaf-off there were more overlook areas than even marked on the map. All facing some version of North and spotlighting the valley. The next marked overlook was at mile 3 of our journey. This one views downstream to the next bend or upstream to Big Bluff which stands 500 feet tall! It really is impressive, in an area with elevations only ranging from 1000-2600 feet.

     We crossed water again at Beech Creek, which is mostly a rocky ravine, with big drops off below us.  There was a couple hiking the other direction around there. They were looking at a map, but didn't ask us anything as we went through. The day had cooled a bit requiring a jacket for stops. Lunch was late for us, maybe 2:00 P.M. or so. Will made ramen, while I chewed on GORP and a granola bar. I knew it was going to kill my appetite for dinner. The first night of a hike usually does that anyway. I have no explanation for it.

Big Bluff in the background. Posers in the foreground.

     We peaked out at about 1750 ft. near the Slatey Place, which has a murky looking pond and multiple trails to choose from. They are signed if you pay attention. Here we turned off the BRT and headed down to Horseshoe Bend. This is a steep descent of about 800 ft. in 1.5 miles. All I could think about was having to hike back up the next day. I'd never hiked it that direction before, and wasn't looking forward to it. Last time, we elected to wade about 7 river crossings on the Old River Trail (ORT) in order to avoid it.

Lockhead Barn

     Time moves quickly downhill. We hit the ORT in about 20 minutes, taking a right to Lockhead Barn, which is mis-marked on the map. From a distance, it looks exactly the same as it did 20 years ago when I slept in the loft with a group of staff members. Up close, the roof is sagging, as is the loft. It was still sturdy, but slopes a bit much for my liking. We were trying to decide where to set up camp when Will stopped for a cat-hole break. He came back and said,"follow me".  On the other side of the barn there was actually a cabin, without door or window glass. It had a river gravel floor. Our guess is that it was a well house. There was a small concrete slab in one corner with "1973" written in. In the center was a metal piece of pipe, cut off flush with the slab. The chinking was done with concrete as well.
***Edit: (The well house I described was actually a "bath house".)***

     About 100 yards from that cabin were the ruins of another one, much bigger. This one was complete with a large rock chimney and an adjoining cellar with a concrete roof. Our guess is that this one was built in the last 50 years. ***Edit: (This cabin was built in 1968 and burned in 1974.)*** But the stone foundations gave us an idea to it's purpose. Someone actually lived here. This was much too big for an individual. Maybe 20 feet by 40 feet. The chimney had metal inserts for heat dissipation and/or blowers. Behind the chimney about 30 feet a drain pipe led to a low area. And it was surrounded by cedar trees. Heaven.

Lockhead Homestead

     We made a fire against that hearth and did our cooking on a raised slab that appeared to have been the front porch. Then we sat around trying to keep warm. It was below freezing by bedtime. By early morning it was in the low 20's F. Cold. I was very uncomfortable that night in my 32 degree bag with a liner. Heck, in the morning, I refused to stir from my bag until my brother handed me my coffee.

...with coffee in reach...

     While eating breakfast, I talked Will out of hiking out of the valley the way we came in. That way we had only about 4 miles to get to my truck. But, if we took the Old River Trail, we'd get there in 2 miles. The only downside to the ORT is that we'd have 4 river crossings. With COLD water. Like usual, he gave me my way. We decided on 4 feet-wet crossings, with our shoes on. That would get us back to biscuits and gravy by 10:00 A.M.! I know, I'm a weenie. But I have a soft spot for real breakfast.
     Our first crossing was right below the barn, so we were wet immediately. As soon as we crossed I saw a group of 5+ backpackers by the barn. We yelled and waved, but they didn't even acknowledge us. Oh well, we were just juiced by the crotch deep cold water anyway. We set to task right out of the gate. The sights are better by the river anyway. The trail is much sandier, but there was little mud or underbrush this time of year. It's like walking in a huge riverbed. It's almost amazing that there is any vegetation in that valley for all the rocks you see.
     After our third crossing, we came to the Arbaugh House, which is a sturdily built 2-room cabin. It has a roofed front porch and 2 doors side by side. We looked around a bit and beat it out of there. Our feet were cold and our hearts were set on hot food. We encountered a group of three dayhikers at Kyles. They were headed to Indian Creek with what appeared to be an octogenarian clad in coveralls. But they were friendly and let us show them the map.
     It needs to be said that even though this was an in-and-out trip for us, there is plenty of oppportunities for exploring. The Slatey Place was an old homestead. The wellhouse at Lockhead farmsite is only one mile from Hemmed-In-Hollow, where resides the highest waterfall between the Rockies and the Appalachians. Indian Creek is only a couple miles back(and off of) the BRT. But those are different trips for me to tell you about another time. But this one was salve for the soul as far as we were concerned. A homecoming of sorts.

Map Used: Trails Illustrated: Buffalo National River West #232

Alternative Menu Planning(Stove-less)

     I'm piggybacking a great post from Hendrik Morkel at HikinginFinland.com. I am usually loathe to do such a thing, but he actually encouraged me to. Well, it's a post, and not just a comment. In Hendrik's post, he actually did some analysis on the efficiency of menu planning without a stove. Weight vs. weight.
     Mine is much less scientific. It's more about what you can gain from ditching your stove on an overnighter. Look at it like this; we need to eat on the trail to survive. Not to get fat, or to pamper ourselves.  To a lightweight hiker, these types of questions have answers only gained through trial and error. And no two participants will answer the same.
     I just need calories delivered in a form I can ingest. Sure, there's a difference in what my mojo requires for a week-long hike than for a quick solo(warm) overnighter. For a week long hike, it's coffee and oatmeal in the mornings, GORP for lunch, and a freeze dried dinner at night. Unless companions cook differently. There's no sense in holding up a group while I make coffee if they only want a cereal-heavy GORP for breakfast. If they make Ramen for lunch, then I might as well join them. Call in conforming, or call it accommodating.
     When alone, it's about my wants and needs only. And it's an ongoing experiment in what works. By looking through my collection of ziplocs in my pantry, I have deduced that I don't end up eating the oatmeal every day of the trip anyway. I invariably have 1-3 packages left each trip. I also never eat all of my snack foods. Sometimes a Mountain House meal will be leftover. But the GORP is always eaten and the coffee is always gone as well.
     What could be gleaned from this very un-scientific analysis? I eat GORP and drink coffee. Hmmm. I can live without the coffee. Could a man live on GORP alone? Yes. It has been proven. By a guy with 2 thumbs. This guy!

     I admit to stealing the idea from my good friend Scopa. He is fond of grazing GORP all day long. He usually eats a hot dinner, but why not steal the idea that struck me? By playing with the recipes, you can make it carb laden in the morning and at lunch and pack it with protein for dinner. It worked, but left me feeling like I was fasting a bit.  So I needed a better idea for a no-cook dinner.....

Creative Commons Image

     Why not? A sandwich(even a big one) will still weigh less than many cook systems. But let's get around to why I really wanted to pursue a stove-less menu in the first place. Time. I haven't enough of it. In my case, days off are split apart. Which leaves me little time to do what I want. So I can leave work at 3:00 P.M. on a Saturday and drive straight to a trailhead. But where? Where can I get my hike in. Trailheads require a bit of driving for me. Sometimes shuttling as well. But if I can use an additional 20-30 minutes per meal actually hiking, then my range of destinations opens up completely. Not to mention that I can save weight sometimes. It's not the most comforting of hiking trips, but it's more comforting than staying home and sleeping in. I still get outside.
     There's other options as well. The GORP for lunch can be replaced with a MetRx Meal Replacement Bar. Fresh fruit for breakfast. Anything that a hiker would actually eat. We won't die of starvation in 24 hours. Just take a good look at what you need, and what you've just convinced yourself that you need. I think you'll find that you've been sold a bill of goods by the gear manufacturers. Keep in mind, this is for 3 season weather in the Mid-South. I'm not burning calories keeping my body temperature up. I'm not melting snow for drinking water. Just figuring out how efficiency gets me and keeps me in the woods. Please let me know your angle on this discussion. We need to share our ideas.
 

Gear Review(Initial): Ultralight Adventure Equipment(ULA) CDT Backpack

Property of ULA, used by permission.

     Although I am pleased with my current backpack(Osprey Exos 46L), I am constantly looking to shed weight without sacrificing comfort, durability, or usefulness. To this end, I purchased a ULA CDT pack from ULA-Equipment.com. The site was easy to navigate and had several different options for the CDT. I selected a "Large" sized pack, with a "Large" sized hipbelt, and "J-curve" shoulder straps. The only thing that worried me was their sizing breakdown. For the medium version the torso length was 18"-21", while the large was 21"-24". The only problem is that my torso length is exactly 21". So I guessed on the side of safety. The same story exactly with the hip belt. The medium is <35", while the large is >35". Again, my waist tends to fluctuate between a 34 and 36. So, again I guessed liberally. The shoulder straps are available in both "J-curve" and "S-curve". I couldn't tell you the benefits of the "S-curve"(women's?), so I ordered straps just like on my other packs.
***UPDATE*** video showing "S-curve" straps designed for women. Link

The ULA website shows the weight of the CDT as 17oz, excluding removable features. The size I ordered would be 18oz due to the additional material. The removable features include a foam backpanel, hand loops, water bottle holsters, a mesh zipper pouch inside the pack, and a hydration sleeve. The foam panel fits tidily inside the main compartment, secured under 2 elastic straps on the top corners. The hand loops, which are attached to the shoulder straps are adjustable and would give hikers with busy hands a place to rest them. The bottle holsters are 2 pairs of adjustable yellow shock cords that attach on the shoulder straps. One loop for the top and one for the bottom. The mesh pocket is attached inside the main compartment, furthest from your head. The hydration sleeve fits inside along your back, with openings on both sides for the hose. ULA recommends a base weight of under 12lbs, and a total pack weight of under 25lbs.

ULA CDT removables

Upon it's arrival, which I deemed fast, the first thing I did is give it a detailed inspection. It is mostly made of Dyneema Gridstop, but also has a bit of reinforced silnylon, as well as no-see-um bug mesh on the outer panel. All the stitching was tight, with no loose ends. I did notice that there were what seemed like miles of extra straps. I don't mean excessive straps, I mean all of them account for me to put on 50lbs of girth. The mesh pouches had some stretch to them. The next thing I did was remove all of the strip-able items excepting the water bottle holsters. Then I weighed it. Using an empty wastebucket, I arrived at 19.5oz on my kitchen scale. Not bad. Over 18oz of weight saving from my Osprey.

I folded my Therm-a-rest Z-rest in half(so to speak) and installed it underneath the twin elastic pad holders within the pack. Then I packed it with my sleeping bag and shelter in the bottom. My thinking is that with a frameless pack the weight needs to ride a bit higher. So I placed my cookset, stove, and food sacks at the top. Since I removed the mesh zippered pouch, I had all my loose items in a small drysack. The external mesh sidepockets held my raingear, while the hipbelt pouches held my inhaler and camera. The outer mesh pocket contained my map pouch, compass, trowel, and Aqua-Mira. The top of this sleeve-like pocket features the mesh doubling back on itself, forming a catch for the overturned pack. I chose to utilize the bottle holsters with 1 liter Bolthouse bottles. Total pack weight for 2(60F deg)nights was 15lbs even. Base weight was around 9lbs. This was my lightest ever, since I decided to leave the rain pants.

The test hike:

I opted for section 5 of the Ozark Highlands Trail, which is 19.8 miles and I would be hiking West to East. It is rugged country with well beaten trail, but has very heavy vegetation. The first day of the trip entailed about 12.8 miles of river valley hiking, with lots of crossings. The second day was similar terrain, but only about 7 miles. On the trail, the pack rode very comfortably for the first 10+ miles. I did notice that I missed the load lifters from my other packs. They weren't neccessary, but in my case a hard habit to break. The other things I noticed were that it took a lot more adjustment every time I removed the hipbelt for stops or crossings. When I removed an item from the main compartment, there was more adjustment from the side compression straps than I am used to. Keep in mind, this is my first experience with a frameless pack. It was never bothersome, just new. The bottle holsters worked well, and were very adjustable. I did jump off of a log once and immediately shot both bottles out of the holsters. The solution is to tighten them down more, making sure the top cord is firmly underneath the lip on the bottle.

The compression on the bag is sufficient, if just so. I think the webbing ends that run through the top clip could be spaced a little further apart. The shock cord that runs through the side mesh compartments also seemed to act like an additional compression strap. They attach to the main compartment on one end, running diagonally to the back of the hip belt on the other. The main compression strap is simple and effective, running horizontally at the middle of the main compartment. It is all entirely functional, and the dual purposes of the shock corded mesh pockets is borderline genius. I'd say that superior compression may be lost on going with lightweight frameless packs. The pack also features 2 trekking pole/ice axe storage setups, which I did not use. Too bad the velcro attachments are not removable as well.

The verdict:

The pack is certainly lightweight. I really appreciated its modularity. Having removable features is thinking down the road. What it does for a pack of this nature is create a broader customer base. The users can choose their own level of comfort. Keep the hydration sleeve or not, Keep the interior zipper patch or ditch it. Hand loops or trekking poles. The pack rode very well, with more generous hip and shoulder padding than (I thought) was necessary. The materials used are all very sturdy with the exception of the mesh pouches. I have read elsewhere that ULA's customer support is very good. I used the contact form provided on their website and recieved a reply within hours. All in all, a tidy little pack. Very suitable to my needs, for a great price. I especially like that it is a cottage industry, and that you can view their workshop on their web page. I will continue to use this pack for my ultralight trips for the future, with no changes except to trim the straps a bit. I think that anyone willing to modify their packing style would be very happy with this purchase. To quote my friend Marco once again,"half the weight, treble the experience!"

Zack Karas, image property of ULA, used with permission

***Update*** After another half dozen trips, I have a few more observations. When using a torso length Z-rest pad as a frame sheet, I notice a lot more sweat on my back. In cold weather this translates to much cooler rest stops. In warm weather it didn't bother me.
     The hip belt pouches open in the wrong direction for easiest use, in my opinion. Zipped forward to open, and backward to close. Because there is no rigidity to the pouch, this proves more difficult with one hand.
     The water bottle holders allow for slippage. In theory, they still work great. But I think a small diameter non-stretchy cord may work better on the top of the bottle. Here's a link to show best what I mean; Stick's Blog. Also the top loop of the water bottle shares an attachment point with a D-ring where I want to clip my GPS unit. Not a serious issue, but noticeable to me.